Vine cultivation techniques

1. Shaping and pruning of pruning grapes aims to regulate the contradiction between growth and results, and to rationalize the distribution of vines on the shelves so as to facilitate management, strengthen the tree, prolong life, and create conditions for high yields year after year.

1. Winter trimming. It usually takes about January to about 20 days before the fall of autumn leaves. Pruning too early or late can cause serious damage to the tree. According to the strength of the tree and the length of the resulting mother, the principle of winter pruning is: strong vines stay long, weak vines stay short; the upper minister stays, the lower stays short. It can be divided into three methods: long vine pruning, short vine pruning, and vine pruning. At the same time cut dense branches, thin branches and pests and branches.

2. Management of the plants during growth. (1) wipe buds. Excessively unnecessary shoots are erased as soon as possible. (2) Kneeling and Detaching. When the new shoot grows to 25~30 cm, it should be tied in time and the tendrils removed. (3) Tip topping and auxiliary tip processing. The tip of the shoot below the ear can be removed from the base, leaving 2 leaves at the tip of the tip above the tip, leaving a few leaves on the tip of the tip of the tip. The result is that the branch can have 6-8 leaves in the week before flowering. (4) Dressing of inflorescences and ears. It is advisable to leave a well-developed inflorescence on a fruit branch. For the evacuated varieties, the spikelets and spikelets should be cut off before flowering; varieties with high fruit set rate should be sparse after flowering.

Second, fertilizer and water management Each producing 100 pounds of berry, about the need for nitrogen 0.25-0.75 kg, phosphorus 0.2-0.75 kg, potassium 0.13-0.63 kg. The basal fertilizer should be carried out after the fruit is harvested until the new shoot is fully matured at the end of September and early October. Topdressing generally applies topdressing nitrogen fertilizer more than ten days before flowering. In early July, topdressing with potash fertilizer is the mainstay. The fertilization was applied at a distance of about 1 meter from the plant to dig in a circular groove, and the base fertilizer had a depth of about 40 cm. The top dressing should be shallow. Watering after fertilization. Spray 1-3% of superphosphate solution before flowering, young fruit and berry maturation; spray 0.05-0.1% boric acid solution before flowering; spraying potassium salt solution during fruit growth and fruit growth, or 3% ash leaching. Before the sap flows to flowering, care should be taken to keep the soil moist and create good conditions for flowering and fruit set. However, flowering should not be watered. From the time of setting fruit to coloring, a large amount of water is needed, and water can be poured every 7-10 days depending on the weather. The fruit coloring period is generally not watered. After harvesting, combined with the fertilization in autumn, the irrigation is conducted once to permeate the water, and once in the winter, the freezing water is poured.

Third, the main diseases and pests and their prevention

1. Major diseases of grapes (1) Blackpox disease of grapes. Timely cutting sick branches, diseased leaves, diseased fruits buried deeply, cut off diseased branches in winter pruning to burn or buried, reduce the source of disease; buds before spraying 5 degrees lime sulfur; growth period (before and after flowering) Spray Bordeaux liquid, according to the proportion of copper sulfate 1 kg, lime 0.5 kg, 80-100 kg of water ratio. (2) Grape downy mildew. Spray 200 times Bordeaux mixture 2-3 times from July. (3) Anthracnose in grapes. The diseased branches were cut off in time to eliminate the source of the disease; after mid-June, 600-800 times of the special anti-bacterial liquid was sprayed every half month. (4) Grape powdery mildew. Strengthen management, keep air and light on the rack; pour the diseased branches and diseased leaves; spray 5 degrees lime sulfur before germination; spray 0.2-0.3 degree lime sulfur in mid-May. (5) Grape water jar disease. Through proper branching, sparse spikes or shoot tips to adjust the amount of results; strengthen fertilization, increase tree nutrients, appropriate application of potash fertilizer, can reduce the occurrence of the disease.

2. The main pests and prevention of grapes. (1) Two-leaf spiders of grapes. During the occurrence period, it was sprayed with 400 times of acetamiprid. (2) Grape red spider. The branches were peeled off in winter and burned on the old skin; spraying 3 degrees before germination and spraying 0.2-0.3 degrees lime sulfur in the growing season. (3) Kinesan insects. Spray 50% dichlorvos 1000 times control. (4) Check the twigs of grapes through the wing moths from June to July to cut off the damaged branches. For branches that should not be cut off, the larvae in the branches can be stabbed with iron wire, or the larvae can be taken out with a quick knife, and can also be directly injected into the larvae. Dichlorvos 500 times EC and then sealed with wet mud. Bordeaux mixture and lime sulfur agent are commonly used drugs for grape pest control. They can not be used together. After spraying lime sulfur mixture, they must be sprayed with Bordeaux for 15 days. After spraying Bordeaux mixture, lime sulfur must be sprayed for 30 days.

Fourth, grafted seedlings of some varieties are not well-developed roots, weak growth, often need to change the production or grafting methods to cultivate seedlings.

1. Spring pick up. From late May to late June, new shoots are semi-wooded and spliced.

2. Autumn connection. Within one month after the harvest, the branches have been lignified and they can be budded.

It starts when the local grape level is reached. It is not easy to survive prematurely, and the growth period is too short after budding and budding, and the degree of lignification of new shoots is low, and it cannot be overwintering in winter. Grafting method used. Scion diameter 0.8-1 cm, length 5 cm, without petiole. Cut down 2.5-3 cm on each side of the plump shoots. The noodles should be smooth, forming symmetrical wedges on both sides. The rootstock thickness is slightly larger than the scion. The seedlings should be cut at an angle of 10-15 cm above the surface, and the roots should be cut at an angle of 5 cm from the base of the branches. After the rootstock was cut and flattened, a straight seam of 3 cm in length from the middle of the cross section to the longitudinal girder was quickly inserted into the cut scion. The bud on the scion was to the south and the cut surface was exposed to 0.3 cm to facilitate healing of the interface. Then use a plastic cable tie to tightly knot the stock from the bottom up. Finally, the scion is tightly wrapped with a plastic strip and only buds are exposed. After 7-10 days, buds germinate. When the new shoot grows to 7-8 leaves, it will be picked in time. The leaves of the axillary shoots are left with 1-2 leaves topping, leaving only one tip to grow at the top. When the leaves grow 5-6 times, they continue to pick up the hearts and handle the shoots to promote shoot ripening.

2. Autumn Grafting The autumn grafting takes place within one month after the harvest. At that time, the branches had been lignified, and budding mosaics could be used. The scion was cut off from the top and bottom of the bud 1 cm away with a sharp knife, and the back half of the bud was cut off from the middle to make a splicing without a petiole. Put the code on the stocks with equal thickness, and use a knife to fasten the two ends of the block to cross each other on the rootstock. Take off the block and cut the rootstock to a gap equal to the size of the block to reach the pith. Then insert the block in the up and down direction into the rootstock notch. Finally, it is completely closed with plastic strips without budding. After deciduous grapes, the wound has healed and the dressing can be removed. At the same time, the rootstock is cut off at 2 cm above the joint. The other unused shoots on the stock were also removed. In the spring of the following year, the buds on the rootstock should be wiped off in time to facilitate the grafting of shoots and spikes.

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